After the first evening dedicated to the Côte des Blancs, the journey continues with a second appointment that broadens the perspective toward territories where Chardonnay takes on softer and more chalk-driven expressions depending on the soils. A tasting conceived to compare tension, breadth, and depth, observing how the grape variety transforms itself while preserving its identity.
Coteaux Vitryats
Chalk subsoil: Chardonnay of freshness and tension
Chalk subsoil: Chardonnay of freshness and tension
Carkonnia, Millésimé 2017 – Antoine Chevalier
Carkonnia Millésimé 2017 is a 100% Chardonnay from massal selection, sourced from the parcel Le Jardin de Meunier, planted in 1954 in Vitry-en-Perthois and south-facing on outcropping fine chalk. Viticulture is carried out without herbicides or synthetic products. Vinification includes ageing on lees in stainless steel tanks and fût, without filtration or fining, with tirage on 05/05/2018 and disgorgement in April 2021; dosage is Extra Brut at 2 g/l, for a total production of 2,638 bottles.
At the olfactive level emerge lime, citron zest, very fine chalk, green apple, and white flowers, supported by crystalline freshness. The palate is taut, vibrant, saline. Chalk imprints a constant vertical drive, while white fruit keeps the sip pure and linear. Dry, precise finish, with persistent tension.
Carkonnia Millésimé 2017 is a 100% Chardonnay from massal selection, sourced from the parcel Le Jardin de Meunier, planted in 1954 in Vitry-en-Perthois and south-facing on outcropping fine chalk. Viticulture is carried out without herbicides or synthetic products. Vinification includes ageing on lees in stainless steel tanks and fût, without filtration or fining, with tirage on 05/05/2018 and disgorgement in April 2021; dosage is Extra Brut at 2 g/l, for a total production of 2,638 bottles.
At the olfactive level emerge lime, citron zest, very fine chalk, green apple, and white flowers, supported by crystalline freshness. The palate is taut, vibrant, saline. Chalk imprints a constant vertical drive, while white fruit keeps the sip pure and linear. Dry, precise finish, with persistent tension.
Sézannais
Limestone and clay for broad and ripe wines
Limestone and clay for broad and ripe wines
B. de Barbonne – M. Marcoult, Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
100% Chardonnay from Barbonne-Fayel, sourced from 35-year-old vines on limestone-clay soils. The cuvée includes 50% reserve wines, base 2023, and vinification takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and foudres, with partial malolactic fermentation. Minimum ageing is 30 months on lees, while Extra Brut dosage is set at 3 g/l.
At the olfactive level it opens on ripe fruit, white peach, pear, and light pastry notes. Clay provides softness, limestone maintains a fresh line. The palate is broad and rounded, with balanced aromatic sweetness. Freshness supports the structure and the finish remains soft, slightly creamy, and clean.
100% Chardonnay from Barbonne-Fayel, sourced from 35-year-old vines on limestone-clay soils. The cuvée includes 50% reserve wines, base 2023, and vinification takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and foudres, with partial malolactic fermentation. Minimum ageing is 30 months on lees, while Extra Brut dosage is set at 3 g/l.
At the olfactive level it opens on ripe fruit, white peach, pear, and light pastry notes. Clay provides softness, limestone maintains a fresh line. The palate is broad and rounded, with balanced aromatic sweetness. Freshness supports the structure and the finish remains soft, slightly creamy, and clean.
Montgueux: a surprise along the route
Turonian limestone and flint: more exotic and sun-kissed Chardonnay
Turonian limestone and flint: more exotic and sun-kissed Chardonnay
Derrière la Cabane – Hélène Beaugrand, Blanc de Blancs
100% Chardonnay from Montgueux, sourced from a mid-slope south-facing position on Turonian limestone and flint. Vinification takes place in stainless steel tanks with malolactic fermentation completed, followed by a minimum ageing of 36 months; base year is 2018, with tirage in March 2019 and disgorgement in 2022. Dosage is Extra Brut at 3 g/l, for a production of 7,725 bottles.
At the olfactive level it is delicate, with ripe white fruit, white flowers, and a light touch of honey. The palate is fresh yet enveloping, with returns of white fruit, subtle creaminess, and gentle minerality. Clean, saline finish.
100% Chardonnay from Montgueux, sourced from a mid-slope south-facing position on Turonian limestone and flint. Vinification takes place in stainless steel tanks with malolactic fermentation completed, followed by a minimum ageing of 36 months; base year is 2018, with tirage in March 2019 and disgorgement in 2022. Dosage is Extra Brut at 3 g/l, for a production of 7,725 bottles.
At the olfactive level it is delicate, with ripe white fruit, white flowers, and a light touch of honey. The palate is fresh yet enveloping, with returns of white fruit, subtle creaminess, and gentle minerality. Clean, saline finish.
Val du Petit Morin
Mixed soils: gentler interpretations
Mixed soils: gentler interpretations
Les Aulnes – Hervé Brisson
100% Chardonnay from a blend of parcels, base 2020 with 30% from 2019, sourced from mixed soils composed of limestone, sand, and silt. Vinification takes place in fût, without filtration or fining; tirage on 31 August 2021 and Extra Brut dosage at 1 g/l. The wine is certified organic.
At the olfactive level emerge white fruit, citrus, and floral notes. The palate is round and gentle, with balanced freshness supporting the softness of the fruit. Harmonious finish, slightly creamy, with a mineral and linear closure.
100% Chardonnay from a blend of parcels, base 2020 with 30% from 2019, sourced from mixed soils composed of limestone, sand, and silt. Vinification takes place in fût, without filtration or fining; tirage on 31 August 2021 and Extra Brut dosage at 1 g/l. The wine is certified organic.
At the olfactive level emerge white fruit, citrus, and floral notes. The palate is round and gentle, with balanced freshness supporting the softness of the fruit. Harmonious finish, slightly creamy, with a mineral and linear closure.
Oger
Grand Cru with favourable exposures and structural tension
Grand Cru with favourable exposures and structural tension
Les Belles Voies 2016 – Franck Bonville
100% Chardonnay from the 2016 vintage, sourced from the parcel Les Belles Voies (0.8 ha), planted in 1960 in a mid-slope position. Vinification takes place in oak barrels, followed by long ageing on lees; disgorgement occurred in February 2024, with Extra Brut dosage at 2.5 g/l. The vintage was marked by a wet spring, a hot and dry summer, and slow, even ripening, resulting in a balance between maturity and tension, supported by the incisive character of the Grand Cru terroir.
At the olfactive level emerge citrus, chalk, dried fruit, and fine pastry notes, with elegant maturity supported by firm freshness. The palate is taut, structured, saline. The sip is broad yet guided by precise minerality. Long and deep finish, with tension unfolding with elegance.
100% Chardonnay from the 2016 vintage, sourced from the parcel Les Belles Voies (0.8 ha), planted in 1960 in a mid-slope position. Vinification takes place in oak barrels, followed by long ageing on lees; disgorgement occurred in February 2024, with Extra Brut dosage at 2.5 g/l. The vintage was marked by a wet spring, a hot and dry summer, and slow, even ripening, resulting in a balance between maturity and tension, supported by the incisive character of the Grand Cru terroir.
At the olfactive level emerge citrus, chalk, dried fruit, and fine pastry notes, with elegant maturity supported by firm freshness. The palate is taut, structured, saline. The sip is broad yet guided by precise minerality. Long and deep finish, with tension unfolding with elegance.
Vertus
Premier Cru with strong territorial identity and diverse soils
Premier Cru with strong territorial identity and diverse soils
Terre de Vertus 2016 – Larmandier-Bernier
100% Chardonnay from the 2016 vintage, sourced from the lieu-dit Les Barillers, located mid-slope with south-east exposure and bordering Le Mesnil-sur-Oger to the north. Vinification is carried out with native yeasts in 50 hl foudre and 500 l demi-muid, with light bâtonnage and malolactic fermentation completed; ageing lasts 5 years on lees. Disgorgement took place on 16 September 2022 and dosage is 0 g/l.
At the olfactive level it expresses citrus, chalk, white herbs, and light pastry notes, in a pure, precise, vertical profile. The palate is dry, incisive, vibrant. Minerality guides the sip, accompanied by freshness that defines the profile. Very clean, long, essential finish, with tension maintained in an elegant register.
100% Chardonnay from the 2016 vintage, sourced from the lieu-dit Les Barillers, located mid-slope with south-east exposure and bordering Le Mesnil-sur-Oger to the north. Vinification is carried out with native yeasts in 50 hl foudre and 500 l demi-muid, with light bâtonnage and malolactic fermentation completed; ageing lasts 5 years on lees. Disgorgement took place on 16 September 2022 and dosage is 0 g/l.
At the olfactive level it expresses citrus, chalk, white herbs, and light pastry notes, in a pure, precise, vertical profile. The palate is dry, incisive, vibrant. Minerality guides the sip, accompanied by freshness that defines the profile. Very clean, long, essential finish, with tension maintained in an elegant register.
With the second evening, the journey is complete: a mosaic of territories and styles that reveals the full versatility of Chardonnay and brings the voyage through Champagne to a harmonious conclusion.
Tiziana Mirabella
Blind tasting conducted by Manlio Giustiniani.
Tags: Chouilly, Cuis, Cramant, Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger