The first stage of our journey through the Côte des Blancs set the scene for a progressive route across five emblematic villages, each capable of expressing Chardonnay in different forms. The craie, the geological soul of the region, revealed itself through interpretations that oscillated between tension, creaminess, minerality and depth. An itinerary designed to understand how soil and subsoil are reflected in the glass, supported by maps and geological insights to read the territory with precision.
Cramant Grand Cru with deep soils, creamy and persistent wines
Cramant Vintage 2015, Bonnaire Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
Cramant Vintage 2015 is made from 100% Chardonnay sourced from some of the most prestigious parcels of the village. Vinification and ageing took place sur lies fines in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, with a minimum ageing period of 72 months on the lees. Disgorgement took place in January 2023 and the dosage is Extra Brut, 2.5 g/l. At the olfactive level it opened with floral notes, ripe fruit, anise, hints of candied citrus and white flowers. The palate proved taut and dry, with marked salinity, volume and creaminess derived from the long lees ageing, and a precise, well-balanced finish.
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru emblem of verticality on pure chalk
Brut Nature, Lombard Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru
This Champagne is made from 100% Chardonnay sourced from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, a great village symbol of verticality, freshness and dynamism: pure, saline Chardonnays supported by very dense chalk that imparts an atypical flinty minerality, clay-limestone soil with silex, and south-east exposure. The vintage is 2016. Vinification took place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks and malolactic fermentation was not carried out. Ageing lasted 48 months sur lattes, disgorgement took place in November 2023 and the dosage is 0 g/l. At the olfactive level, evolved notes, ripe fruit and almond emerged. The palate proved taut and direct, with an elegant bitter vein that dried and extended the progression. Zero dosage enhanced the purity of the village: a vertical, rigorous, essential sip.
Cuis Premier Cru with wines of great freshness
Blanc de Blancs Millésime 2015, Diebolt-Vallois
The Millésime 2015 by Diebolt-Vallois is a 100% Chardonnay sourced entirely from Cuis. The 2015 vintage was warm and sunny. Vinification took place in stainless-steel tanks, with malolactic fermentation carried out. Tirage was performed in 2016, ageing lasted six years sur lies; disgorgement took place in 2022 and the dosage is 4 g/l. At the olfactive level it appeared warm and balanced, with notes of caramelised sugar, ripe fruit and brioche. The palate proved full and enveloping, supported by good tension. The saline finish, typical of the village, provided clarity and lift.
Avize Grand Cru with pure chalk soils, elegant wines of great minerality
Mychorize, De Sousa
Mychorize is a 100% Chardonnay certified Demeter biodynamic, from the 2017 vintage with reserve wines dating back to 2010. Vinification took place in wood, disgorgement on 10 March 2021 and the dosage is 3 g/l. A more structured Champagne, coming from a slope with good inclination and expressing the classic minerality of Avize. At the olfactive level it proved explosive and layered: citrus, fine pastry and dried fruit. The palate was full yet extremely refined, saline and balanced, with alternating notes of citrus, chalk and pastry. A harmonious, broad sip of great class.
Chouilly Grand Cru at the north-eastern edge, known for structure
Le Fond du Bateau N°13, Pertois-Lebrun Blanc de Blancs
Le Fond du Bateau N°13 is a 100% Chardonnay from the 2013 vintage, sourced from the “Le Fond du Bateau” parcel, 1.44 hectares of old vines over 50 years of age, planted by grandfather Paul Pertois, located in bas de coteau with east exposure. The soil is silty-limestone with chalky subsoils from the Upper Cretaceous (Campanian). Harvest took place between late September and early October. Vinification included 53% concrete tanks and 47% oak barrels, with élevage sur lies fines and natural clarification without fining or filtration. Tirage took place in July 2014, disgorgement in June 2023 and the dosage is 2 g/l. Production amounts to 2,186 bottles. A distinctive village due to east and north exposures influenced by the Butte de Saran, with maximum respect for soils and minimal intervention in the cellar. At the olfactive level it proved fresh and citrus-driven, with green apple, lime and white herbs; the wood added a hazelnut nuance. The palate proved taut and fresh, with citrus progression and vibrant minerality. Dry, elegant finish of great finesse.
The first evening came to a close leaving the journey open-ended: a voyage through the Côte des Blancs that will continue in the second stage, broadening the perspective towards new terroirs and new interpretations of Chardonnay.
